The History of Women's Lingerie

Ever Changing Shapes of Lingerie for Women
Colorful thongs, leather garters, peignoirs, latex sports bras and the French maid outfit: today, lingerie today is readily available in any style or fabric you can imagine. In order to understand how far lingerie has come, it is crucial to take a closer look at the history of lingerie throughout the ages. During the last hundred years, women's fashion has seen a radical march forward, and the evolution of lingerie has illustrated this change. In fact, the undergarments of the past have often been painful, even dangerous, and sometimes just outright bizarre when compared to the elegant, yet erotic creations of the present day.
See La Perla
Ancient Undergarments:
The Minoan women on the island of Crete wore a tight bodice made of bone that pushed their breasts over and out ---exposed for the whole world to see. Though some may consider this an instance of devaluing women, based on evidence historians suggest otherwise: the display of breasts showcased the women’s ability to create life. This has caused many to believe that these ancient societies were egalitarian and that they cherished the symbolic link between humanity and the flow of nature.
The Romans did not wear undergarments under their various togas! On occasion, they would wear a pair of shorts or loincloth called the subligaculum. Women would sometimes cover the top part of their bodies with a strophium (breast-cloth), as evidenced on the frescoes of the Villa Romana del Casale (4th Century, Piazza Armerina, Sicily), which shows several Roman gymnastics with their private parts covered.
Europe Forgot to Bathe:
Fast forward to the Roman Empire. A chemise (often considered a precursor to the t-shirt) was worn between the skin and the outer garment during the Medieval times. This was done to protect the woman's clothing from sweat and other forms of bodily secretions. The outer garments were seldom washed, so it made sense that the chemise was to be washed regularly. Often considered the era of sexual denial, the Medieval times provided lingerie that flattened the breasts to the point of non-existence!

Rebirth of the Curves:
The Renaissance can be seen as a rebirth of a new focus on female curves; except for the fact that women went to unforeseeable extremes to achieve that perfect hourglass figure! Many women at the time were voluptuous, yet they were forced to wear corsets that were tightened to the point of being dangerous. Though corsets were seen predominantly in England and France, Italian women soon picked up on this trend.These corsets caused some women to pass out from excessive compression!

During the 18th century, the cleavage came into fashion and lingerie was designed to emphasize its beauty. Though corsets were still constructed with whalebone, a bold move was made towards the decorative lingerie you know today. Push-up corsets were lavished with lace, embroidery and ribbon. Since doctors were now speaking out on the hazards of extremely tight corsets, less restrictive designs were finally introduced.

The Dawn of the Lingerie Revolution:

A century later, the lingerie revolution occurred. Corsets became smaller, less cumbersome and allowed for freer movement and easier breathing. There was more support for the breasts and for the first time in the history of fashion, the "brassiere", (French for support,) was introduced and patented by Mary Phelps Jacobs. The 19th century also introduced stockings, which are considered the forerunners of modern-day knee and thigh-highs. Stockings were held up by garters and suspenders that attached to the corsets. Un-seamed, frilly drawers were also worn and would sometimes go straight to the knee.
When the men went off to fight in the First World War, women found themselves the breadwinners of their families. Their new identities beckoned the demand for more practical undergarments. Brassieres had to be light enough to be worn in just about any industrial work condition. This led to the use of lighter and more breathable fabrics. Style became functional and focused on support over appearance.

The Roaring Twenties saw an end to the corsets. New ideas on sexuality and beauty were made popular by the Flapper Girls. Boyish physiques were popularized with short bob hairstyles and flapper dresses.

The female physique was supposed to be smooth and free of curves, and women wore light chemises, bloomers, and bodices to help achieve that look. Another liberating change: the introduction of undergarments in different colors!
New Fabrics and Styles Introduced:
A decade later, flat breasts were no longer fashionable. Lingerie of the day focused on feminine proportions once again, and a bra that enhanced the breasts was born. The girdle also became a popular piece: although full breasts were considered beautiful, fat was not. The elastic fiber Lastex, invented by Dunlop Rubber, was also introduced into the production of lingerie during this time. It enabled lingerie markers to offer undergarments in a variety of sizes for every female body type, size, and shape.

In 1935, Guia la Bruna’s grandfather founded a lingerie factory in Turin. The Guia la Bruna brand upholds the tradition till today, producing high quality intimate wear. Meanwhile in the America of the 1940s, the push-up bra was invented and Frederick Mellinger started his own lingerie business in his tiny, Manhattan loft. A year later, he moved to Hollywood and thus, the retail lingerie store Frederick's of Hollywood was born. This was the first time lingerie was made for reasons other than practicality, and Frederick's pieces were famous among many Hollywood stars. Up until then, nobody except for the Can-Can dancers at the Moulin Rouge ever bought undergarments in order to be seen in them.
lingerie history italy
Despite the bra burning trends led by the Women's Liberation Movement of the 1960s, lingerie in every shape and form was here to stay. In Italy, a woman named Ada Masotti, a started making corsets for wealthy women, which led to the establishment of the La Perla company, which makes some of the best intimate wear in the world today. By the 1990s, Frederick's of Hollywood and Victoria's Secret became two of America's largest lingerie retail chains. Designers were constantly coming up with new styles of lingerie to fit the demands of those purchasing it. Furthermore, modern lingerie started to fall into two categories: undergarments designed with function and modesty in mind (slips, camisoles, sports bras, t-shirt bras, etc.) and lingerie that was more racy, consisting of garments at that were typically worn in the bedroom and designed for show.

Thong Thong!

Today, lingerie appears in many forms, designs and sizes for a myriad of purposes. Not surprisingly, the thong underwear is the most popular and fastest selling item. In 2002, Victoria's Secret sold over 20 million pairs of thongs alone, and the numbers keep growing. Though the United States considers the thong controversial in many aspects, many high school girls own nothing BUT thong underwear. As the world heads further into the 21stcentury, it will be interesting to see what sort of ingenuity designers would display in creating new types of of intimate wear.
Stylish Italian Lingerie:
The Italians are famous for their sexy, yet romantic and classic lingerie designs. Notable Italian designers that have taken on the lingerie challenge include Giorgio Armani, La Perla, Guia la Bruna, Cosabella and Flora. For those of us who prefer excellent quality at reasonable prices, chain lingerie stores such as Intimissimi, Yamamay and Tezenis provide just that. The days of trying on everything and finding nothing in your price range are finally over thanks to the many varieties of lingerie available today.

Winter Coats in Italy I

Ladies Winter Coats I
Fall Trends for the Italian Coat
There is already that nip in the air, and fall has set in. Before winter dons your world in a coat of white, you might as well hurry up and pick up your own coat for the season. Or, if you are like me, you would choose in plural: coats! Yes, I am a believer in glamorous coats that beat the brutal cold but still manage to make the wearer look hot. Protection from the weather does not necessarily mean saying goodbye to glamour, and in a season that doesn't offer any skin-baring options, well designed coats can do the trick. And should you take my word for it, some of the best coats styles in the world are set on
One of the perennial coat styles that comes out with new variations each season is the military-inspired line: epaulets, high collars, natty belts, all the works and more. Something in the mind of fashion gurus likes to twist these war-like, usually male attire into wickedly alluring stuff for women.
I say more power to them, because it sure does make women look awesome. Check out some of the styles that went on the Italian ramps for this fall. The button-studded khaki French look from , and the belted beauty from the house of Fendi, that nips in the waist and lengthens the torso.

Prada Jacket
You can repeat the “on its own” effect with these Valentino Romas in red cashmere and black and white wool, which give you a cozy, warm hug in all the right places. You can be formaland cut a strikingly feminine bella figura in coats like these. These are best worn in lengths slightly below the knee, teamed up with straight skirts or trousers.

FPRIVATE "TYPE=PICT;ALT=Cavalli Fur Trench"
Cavalli Fur Trench
Any of these trench coats can carry you through the season, and to my mind it is important to invest in a very good piece. These will never go out of fashion, so it makes sense to invest generously in one. Check our www.fashiontime-lates.blogspot.com 's interpretation of the trench: luscious printed velvet, fur and a stunning gold belt cinch, perfect for the diva in you, especially in case money is no object!
You could also go for a cropped trench version with big collars that are such a rage this season. Deceptively simple, they give you that no-nonsense air. But combine them with black leggings and they give you a hint of hidden mystery. Or wear it with a skirt that just peeps underneath for that uber-cool semi-casual look. Best in a shorter length, like the Fendis in sober beige, sumptuous black velvet and the kimono-sleeved black with the wide, nipping belt, these cropped trenches are the ultimate in smart, go-getting Italian outerwear this fall

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Kameez and dupatta are black chiffon with a black georgette shalwar. Embellished with gold kora. *Original design consists of a short shirt with a patiala shalwar. Can be customized to a long shirt with a choice of sleeve length along with a different color scheme and cut/straight pants, capris or churidar

A Quieter Fifth Act


FOR a while, it wasn’t clear whether Billy Gilroy was going to accumulate more restaurants or marriages. Until a few years ago, he was dead even, five apiece. But he opened Macao Trading Co. last November in TriBeCa (his sixth), and will open his newest, East Side Social Club, on 230 East 51st Street in Manhattan next month. And he has managed to stay married this, his fifth time, for three years now.
Robert Wright for The New York Times
FAMILY FEAST Billy Gilroy with Devon, 25, and Grace, 26. They will combine their know-how at their new restaurant, East Side Social Club in Manhattan.

“You would hope you get smarter as you get older,” said Mr. Gilroy, 53.
Looking back on it, he has come to see that the very thing that made him a successful Manhattan restaurateur probably made him very bad at marriage.
“My restaurants are meant to be romantic places where you forget your problems,” he said.
His Employees Only restaurant in the West Village is a replica of a 1920s speak-easy. The lounge at Macao is decorated like a Far East brothel. Both spots go until the wee small hours, 4 a.m., and are best known for exotic cocktails.
A 1994 New York magazine piece on the hot-hot restaurant scene (“There’s a Model in My Soup”) described Mr. Gilroy, then 37, as a major player, a Page 6 fixture, “looking dapper in his Panama hat,” posing with his live-in model girlfriend RaShelle Murri and scoring mega-points for hosting and Cindy Crawford during the first month his Match restaurant was open.
“People want to believe in the glamour, believe in the romance, forget their problems for a little while,” Mr. Gilroy said while a power saw buzzed and he walked a visitor around the construction at his newest place, which will look like a 1950s mafia social club. “It’s a lot of fun, a lot of superficiality. Everyone’s happy, then the next day you wake up and it’s real life.”
Mr. Gilroy bought into the very romance that he peddled. “I never married somebody I didn’t love,” he said. “But a year later — hopefully you got a year of happiness out of it — you sort of wake up, you’re just two people and there are surprises.”
Among the things he woke up to in the course of five marriages was three children. He acknowledges not being the best father. “It’s an industry riddled with pitfalls, working to 4 or 5 in the morning,” he said.
His two oldest lived with their mother a three-hour drive away in Connecticut. He would try to see them once a month, but on weekends, when they were free, restaurants are busiest. When Devon was 11 and Grace 12, they would ride the Peter Pan bus into the Port Authority and their dad would take them to work at Lucky Strike. It was worst during their teenage years. His son abused drugs and was kicked out of two schools. His daughter stopped talking to him for five years, until she was 19.
Now, as she’s introduced, to put herself in family context, Grace Gilroy, 26, explained, “My mother was the first wife.”
“Second, baby,” Mr. Gilroy said. “She was the second wife.”
Billy Gilroy is a high school dropout from Flushing, Queens, who worked his way up Manhattan’s night life, busing tables as a teenager at Broome Street Bar; bartending in his 20s at the Water Club; managing Nell’s; becoming, at 32, a partner in Lucky Strike; and then, in the ’90s, at his flamboyant peak, an owner of the Match restaurants (two in Manhattan, one in the Hamptons).
It wasn’t as flambĂ© as it appeared to be. “I over-leveraged myself, not only financially but emotionally,” he said.
In 2001, he closed the Match restaurants. His fourth marriage broke up and, he said, he had to take custody of his third child, a 5-year-old daughter. For two years he lived off the money he made from selling the time that remained on the closed restaurants’ leases.
The man in the Panama hat became, of all things, a single stay-at-home dad. “I watched my savings drop,” he said.
But he also slowed down enough to notice that his two oldest shared his work ethic and a love for the restaurant biz.
At 19, Grace asked to live with him. This was expediency at first — she was starting at and wanted a free place nearby. She’d stopped talking to him when he had the daughter with his fourth wife.
“I was so angry,” she said, “seeing him start a new family.”
With her father rarely around, and her single mother working two jobs, Grace had to be a parent to her younger brother, Devon.
“We were still little kids,” Devon said, “and she’d order for me at restaurants.”
In time, her feelings toward her dad softened. “We built a relationship,” she said. “I was able to see that he was just a human being. It wasn’t easy for him, either.”
This, of course, sounds smoother in retrospect. “All three of us were in therapy,” Mr. Gilroy said. “Cost me $500 a week.”
He was impressed that as a full-time student Grace worked a 40-hour week at the Maritime Hotel’s restaurant. By 22, she was the manager.

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